Annapurna Bikepacking
Three women. Three bikes. One dream: riding around the Annapurna massif.
Photography: Tatiana
Words: Tatiana & Lotti
The Thorong La Pass, at 5,416 meters, is the highest pass in the world accessible on foot. Eight of the world’s fourteen eight-thousanders surround it. Pushing a bike up there felt borderline absurd and yet strangely irresistible.
Conditions turned harsher than expected. Heavy November snowfall, landslides, rescue helicopters, and reports of acute mountain sickness made it clear this wasn’t just an adventure, but a serious undertaking. Narrow trails of ice, snow, and mud at –25 °C turned the bikes into heavy companions rather than riding tools. From Yak Kharka onward, hike-a-bike became the default mode. At times, cycling existed only as a distant concept.
Acclimatization was key and never guaranteed. Headaches, dizziness, loss of appetite, frozen hydration tubes, and constant breath management became daily realities. When Marco showed signs of AMS before the final push, the group had to split. Continuing without him wasn’t an easy choice, but it underlined one of the trip’s biggest lessons: strength isn’t just pushing on, it’s knowing when to turn back.
Despite the altitude and exhaustion, moments of clarity appeared. Above 4,000 meters, life narrowed down to essentials: breathing, stepping, pushing. The mountains felt overwhelming and grounding at the same time. The higher they climbed, the more the mountain dictated the pace, every step negotiated, every breath conscious.
In the end, it wasn’t the kilometers, the elevation, or even the suffering that defined the trip. It was the quiet moments, when the mind shut off, the body took over, and the mountains enforced total presence.
The Annapurna Circuit wasn’t about conquering anything. It was about accepting limits, respecting the environment, and realizing how small everyday worries become at altitude. Perfectly equipped thanks to careful preparation (and one down jacket too many), the journey unfolded exactly once.
And honestly? As extraordinary as it was, this is a once-in-a-lifetime experience.