Tour de Slovakia (Brat Babes)
Slovakia isn’t the first place that comes to mind when you think of cycling. France has its cols, Italy its espresso, Spain its sun. But Slovakia? For most, it’s still a blank spot on the map. That’s exactly why Harry, Ally, Bush, and Jock decided to ride across it. Starting from Isadore’s home in Bratislava, they set out to connect mountains, valleys, and those hidden corners you won’t find on Google.
Words and photos by Harrison Hunter.
Isadore, founded by ex-pro brothers Martin and Peter Velits, are based in Bratislava, right at the heart of the country. So, the idea was simple, link their home roads with the mountains, valleys, and hidden corners that you can’t find on Google, and see what Slovakia really had to offer on two wheels.
With support from Isadore, MTBIKER, and Time Bikes, the plan started to take shape. I now had a Time ADHX 45 under me, Isadore kit on my back, and (thankfully) a well-planned route from local rider and Isadore CFO Tomas Rosival, because admittedly if left to my own devices, I’d probably still be circling Bratislava looking for the right road out.
There were four of us taking on the adventure, a bit of a ragtag bunch - Ally, master of one-liners and capable of turning even the worst scenario into comedy, Bush, running almost exclusively on pizza slices and questionable cheese choices, Jock, solid as they come, who somehow makes grinding up climbs look easy, and me, Harry, the one with the bright idea to do this in the first place, usually armed with the plan but just as likely to miss the turning. Friends, riding pals, but mainly a motley crew daft enough to think we could pedal across a country none of us really knew.
And so, with 9 expertly planned days (8 achieved) stretched out ahead of us, the Tour de Slovakia began.
Day 1: Bratislava → Senica (102km / 780m)
Like all good bike trips, ours started the night before, which meant shiny new Time bikes picked up from MTBiker and prepped at the Isadore Community Hub… followed immediately by a few too many beers in Bratislava. Strong choices for a group about to camp in fields and ride across an entire country.
Morning faffs were world-class. Bags checked, re-checked, and checked again. Maps not loaded. Forgotten items retrieved. We must have rolled out of the Community Hub three separate times before actually making it stick. By the time we escaped the city, it was closer to lunch than breakfast, but morale was high, and the sun was out.
The first climb delivered exactly what you want on a trip like this, quiet roads, dense woods, and a summit beer stop… less than an hour in. A very slippery slope. The descent that followed was brilliant too, apart from Bush losing a shoe halfway down and having to grind 3km back uphill to reclaim it. Shoes: 1, Bush: 0.
The afternoon brought crosswinds, headwinds, and a lot of “why is the wind always in our face?” conversation, but the roads made up for it. Rolling lanes carried us deeper into the countryside until we finally reached Kunov Reservoir. Tents and bivvies went up in the fields, a lakeside village party provided the soundtrack, and the day ended somewhere between wild camp serenity and Europop chaos.
Day 1 set the tone - nothing would go to plan, everything would take longer than expected, and somehow that would make it even better.
Day 2: Kunov Reservoir → Púchov (109km / 880m)
The field camp by Kunov Reservoir had its own soundtrack, stars above, 90’s bangers from a lakeside party below. A brief shower in the night tried to dampen spirits, but by morning, the team was up, packing, and finally heading into proper Slovakian countryside.
The further north we went, the prettier the ride became. Rolling hills, sleepy villages, and distant mountains teased the coming days. Stará Turá lake tempted a dip, Tomas said it was an ideal stop, but the lure of goulash in Trenčín kept us pedalling. Priorities, as always.
Trenčín delivered history and charm, a medieval castle perched on a rock, where Marcus Aurelius once camped almost 1900 years ago. We didn’t have to defend the empire, thankfully, but the goulash and a pint in the square felt like a worthy Roman reward.
The river path along the Váh made the final stretch smooth, until Bush decided to race everyone to Púchov, leaving the rest of us chasing at full tilt. Exhausted, laughing, and maybe a little winded, we rolled into Župný dom, an old building with history in every wall and a welcoming bar to boot. Comfortable or fancy? No. Perfect for a weary group? Absolutely!
Crosswinds, hills, summit beers, shoe mishaps, enforced bar stops, it was all part of the rhythm. By the end of Day 2, the Tour de Slovakia was in full swing, chaotic, scenic, and utterly unmissable.
Day 3: Púchov → Kostolná Reservoir (95km / 1,040m)
We left Župný dom after a night that didn’t exactly deliver on sleep, Jock had made sure everyone sampled the local beers, enforcing a mandatory “team bonding” session that went on a bit later than expected. By now, we’d become so reliant on coffee to start the day that it had turned into a running joke, counting how many espressos it took to get moving and watching the rest of the boys try to figure out what an Americano was in Slovakian.
The first 20km were flat, following smooth bike paths along the Váh River, giving us time to ease into the day. Rolling hills and forests started to appear, and the team couldn’t resist stopping for photos every few kilometres. Then came the first proper climb, a short but brutally steep 20% kicker. Ally said it “goosed the legs,” and I couldn’t argue, we were all feeling it.
As if that wasn’t enough, I got my first puncture, and to add insult to injury, my pannier decided to give up the ghost. Suddenly, our “quick morning climb” turned into a two-hour mechanical session, filled with laughter, jokes, and some friendly moaning.
Once we finally got back on the road, we swapped pulls into a stiff headwind up to Fackov. Then came Čičmany, a tiny town famous for its painted wooden houses. It was worth the stop, pints, chips, and the chance to stretch our legs while admiring the quirky architecture.
The day ended in style with one of the best descents of the trip down to the campsite at Kostolná Reservoir, complete with its funky green toilets. Tents pitched, pizza devoured, and pints shared, Day 3 had everything, climbs, mechanicals, teamwork, and scenery that made it all worthwhile.
Highlights: Steep climbs, punctures, pannier failures, headwinds, painted villages, and a descent I’ll remember forever, plus endless coffee jokes keeping the team entertained along the way.
Day 4: Kostolná Reservoir → Banská Štiavnica (110km / 2,270m planned, 1,800m achieved)
We left the campsite with the morning sun already warming the valley, kit still a little damp, and the day promising big climbs. Our first stop was Bojnice, a tiny town with a stunning castle and quirky buildings. Even a brief pause to snap photos gave a taste of why this part of Slovakia is so special, rolling hills framed the town, forests stretched up into the hills, and the air felt impossibly clean.
Once out of town, the roads opened up, smooth, fast, and baking in the heat. Lunch was a semi-cracked affair, energy low and legs sticky, before we tackled some gravel for the second time. Bush’s first puncture of the trip gave the boys a chance to flex their mechanical skills, laughter echoing across the quiet roads as we got him back on track.
The big climb of the day loomed in our minds as we pushed onward, splitting to ride at our own pace. The valley views, scattered villages, and dense forests made every pedal worthwhile. At the base of the climb when re stocking water stores, we discovered that beer in this region was in fact cheaper than water, a little motivation for the next section.
Descending into Banská Štiavnica, the town revealed itself as a jewel tucked into the hills, narrow streets, colourful buildings, and the kind of charm that makes you wish you could stay longer. We checked into Bisou Suites, a stunning Airbnb that could easily have been a destination in itself. In hindsight, pushing on for the extra challenge to Chata Andreja Kmeťa – Sitno meant we didn’t enjoy the town or the accommodation as much as we should have, a collective “lesson learned” for the boys.
The optional extension was brutal but beautiful. Ally, Bush, and I climbed steeply through forested ridges and open hills, taking in sweeping views across valleys and distant peaks. On the way down, inspired by my earlier descending mishaps (which I’ve intentionally left out), Ally tried to push the pace through some boulders strewed across the road, resulting in a dramatic double puncture. The boys got him sorted, laughter and groans mingling as we reflected that perhaps Banská Štiavnica itself deserved more of our time.
Back in town, pasta cooked by chef Jock was more than welcome, and a few steins later, spirits were high again. Banská Štiavnica had completely won us over, stunning scenery, challenging climbs, rewarding descents, and a town worth lingering in. And somewhere along the way, Jock discovered Instagram, giggling at reels and scoffing Oreos, reminding us that even the small things make these trips unforgettable.
Day 5: Banská Štiavnica → Ruzina (112km / 1,740m)
We woke up in Banská Štiavnica feeling the after-effects of the previous night, the ruin bar had done its damage. One stein turned into three, cocktails got involved, and our hangovers were spectacular. Coffee became mandatory, and of course, the first stop was Billa for pizzas and pastries, a ritual that had become our morning routine. The race to see who could grab the first slice never got old.
Once fortified, we headed out into rural Slovakia. The early climbs were steep and relentless, but the views kept us distracted, rolling valleys, forests, and villages that seemed untouched by time. A small river provided the perfect spot for lunch, and Ally’s jokes kept the hangovers tucked away, at least for a while.
Gravel paths and a minor route mishap led us through woods and fields, including another puncture, just to keep the day interesting. Eventually, we reached the base of the day’s big ascent, “the wall” as we later described it. The gradient ramped up so sharply that, in Ally’s words, “Jock almost had to belay me up it.” The forests and valleys around us stretched beautifully in the afternoon light, making the climb brutal but stunning.
Cresting the climb opened onto one of the trip’s favourite roads, a smooth, winding mountain route framed by towering trees, golden light, and endless curves. We couldn’t resist pulling out the drone, it was one of those sections that truly captures why Slovakia is such a perfect playground for bikepacking.
As the evening approached, we decided to call it a day and set up camp 15km short of the route’s official end, high in the rural hills. Tents and bivvies went up, and just as we settled in, a local Slovak man began singing opera to his farm animals beneath the stars. It was surreal but beautiful, one of those moments that make you pause and appreciate the simplicity and wonder of the trip.
The day had everything, brutal climbs, scenic valleys, off-road detours, river crossings, and a taste of true rural Slovakia. And by the end, the Billa pizzas and iced coffees had done their magic, reminding us of the small joys that make even the hardest days unforgettable.
Day 6: Ruzina → Teply Vrch (Planned 85km / 720m, Finished 100km)
What was meant to be the shorter, “easy day” of the trip didn’t quite materialise, admittedly not helped by the 15km we’d cut from the day before, however waking up in the mountains to the morning light on the hills made it all worth it. Quiet slopes and distant ridges set the perfect scene to start the day.
Our first descent took us straight into town for coffee, where we finally tried a local specialty, Alžírská káva, a rich, creamy eggnog-and-coffee mash-up that immediately felt like a reward for the morning ride. Behind us, locals were already enjoying beers and shots, making for a slightly surreal start to the day. As Ally put it, “Caned it downhill to town where the locals were already on the pints and vodka at 9am, so joined the crew and got a local coffee with eggnog in it,” perfectly capturing the morning’s mix of energy, caffeine, and amusement.
Our first stop was Galicia Nueva, a beautifully restored Zámocký Hotel that Tomas had highlighted as a scenic landmark. From there, we made our way to the long-awaited coffee and cake stop. I used my newfound Slovak skills to explain the menu to the boys, which was as much fun for me as it was for them.
After this easier start, we returned to smooth, near-empty bike paths, where the hammer was inevitably put down, much to mine and Jock’s mild dismay. The rolling hills, open fields, and forests made it hard to complain, even at a pace faster than intended.
A quick Lidl pit stop topped up our essentials for the evening before tackling the final climb to Teply Vrch. The last hill felt longer than expected, but the view at the top made it worth it. As Ally put it, “Got some funny looks from the locals before heading up the last hill to the campsite for well-needed beers and food,” probably thanks to our newfound beards and rugged appearance.
By the time tents were pitched and dinner devoured, it was clear that even an “easy” day in Slovakia can be long, scenic, and full of laughs. Mountains, castles, quiet paths, and a bit of caffeine-fuelled mischief made it another unforgettable day on the tour.
Day 7: Teply Vrch → Dedinky (Ended in Stratena) — 119km / 2,580m
We woke up at the campsite, slowly piecing together why everyone had been stockpiling booze the night before - it was a public holiday in Slovakia!! which meant all the shops were closed for the day. Fortunately, our route creator and Isadore CFO, Tomas, joined us for what was shaping up to be the queen stage of the Tour de Slovakia, a massive 2,500m of climbing awaited.
After seven days together, we were a little nervous that our odd in-jokes and chaotic humour might not quite land with Tomas, but he slotted seamlessly into the group, making day 7 one of the most enjoyable of the trip. His local knowledge and ability to chat with the few locals we passed made navigating deep rural Slovakia far easier than it would have been otherwise.
The ride kicked off with a quick pit stop in Muran, where the famous pastry shop had queues out the door. It was the perfect prelude to the hills ahead. Ally’s take on the morning: “Was straight out of the frying pan with back-to-back climbs but zoomed through the first 30km to a town, it was a public holiday so everywhere was shut, so found a petrol station for coffee and food.”
Shortly after the first two major climbs, we dropped Jock at a local café along with our bike bags to shed the load, and by the time we were back he’d made life-long friends with the owners, and his charming smile posted all over their social pages. At this point – after some insight from a local Mtbiker (who’d summitted what I’m about to describe 7-times the day before), the rest of us tackled the out-and-back monster of Kráľova Hoľa, a 13km beast with 1,152 meters of ascent at an average gradient of 8.5%. The freshly laid tarmac was an absolute joy to ride, and while the pictures don’t do it justice, this might have been my new favourite climb in Europe. Ally summed it up vividly: “first 500m was alright, was wetter than an otter’s pocket, then the legs went, dropped about 10 times by Bush and Tomas, and thought “**** it, let’s go for the top.’”
By the time we reached a local ski cabin for lunch, battered but exhilarated, the sense of achievement was huge. Traditional Slovak pierogi and pints went down perfectly, expertly explained this time by our local host. The descent to our mountain cabin was just as stunning as the climb, steep, tree-lined roads that made you appreciate every pedal from the morning.
Ally’s final reflection of the day captured the mix of exhaustion and awe: “Cooked at this point, made it to a ski resort restaurant for schnitzel and pints, then Harry dragged us down the last 17km descent to the gaff. Garmin says I burnt 6,000 calories today, so we gotta eat.”
Another incredible day in Slovakia - mountains, more pastries, epic climbs, and the kind of camaraderie that only seven days in the saddle can create. By now, it was hard to believe we’d never explored Slovakia by bike before.
Day 8: Stratena → Nová Lesná (102km / 2,100m, Reduced to 1,200m)
We woke up in one of the most stunning spots of the trip, morning light dappling through the trees and a proper Slovakian scrambled eggs breakfast to fuel the day. Originally, this was meant to be the penultimate ride finishing at Sliezsky Dom, a mountain hotel and starting point for many High Tatras hikes, but spotting the storm rolling in, we wisely booked accommodation at the base of the High Tatras in Nová Lesná, a decision we were very glad of.
The morning saw us winding through tree-lined, narrow mountain passes, smooth tarmac under our wheels, perfect for quiet moments and drone shots. After a week of mostly flawless roads, the descent into the valley suddenly turned bumpy and uneven, a shock to the legs, which explains Ally’s wry Strava comment that: “the descent sucked so badly my calves almost fell off.” Despite the rough patch, the first views of the High Tatras had all of us buzzing, and as we rode through villages between the Low and High Tatras, the contrast with western Slovakia became clear. Kids ran out to show off their vintage football jerseys, adding lively, photogenic moments to an already unforgettable morning.
A nasty head and crosswind tested the legs, but a quick refuel of our perfected shop finds of chocolate, pastries, and iced coffees, now becoming our staples from local Slovakian corner shops, got us back on track. The long, steady climb to the lower slopes of the Tatras was a perfect mix of gradient and scenery, and the 20km descent to the accommodation was a joyful reward.
With the storm now approaching, we decided to skip cycling up to Sliezsky Dom and instead took the tram, allowing us to safely enjoy the final mountain vistas. The afternoon and evening were spent exploring the village as local festivals were in full swing, music, dancing, and food all around us. A sudden downpour sent us scuttling back to the Airbnb, drenched and exhausted, sharing laughs over the perfect send-off to our Slovak adventure.
Ally summed it up simply: “Gutted that’s the last day, but some place to end it!”
Even with the shortened route, Day 8 delivered mountains, villages, wind, and awe-inspiring views, a fitting finale to a trip that continually reminded us why cycling in Slovakia is so special. By the evening, the boys were knackered, but memories of the Tatras, daily laughter, and epic riding would last a lifetime.
Day 9: Nová Lesná → Poprad → Bratislava
The final day of riding was short and sweet, a gentle roll down to Poprad to catch the train back to Bratislava. Of course, nothing ever goes smoothly with this ragtag crew, we managed to board the wrong train at first, which made for plenty of amusement as we tried to explain our tickets via Google Translate. After a few raised eyebrows and some re booked tickets, all was sorted, and we settled in for the four-hour journey back to where it all began.
The train ride was full of reminiscing the climbs conquered, hidden villages discovered, wild camping nights, and those moments of pure awe staring at the High Tatras. Once back in Bratislava, we dropped the bikes off and headed into town armed with Martin’s local recommendations. Beers flowed, stories of the trip were shared, and the final night together became a proper celebration of everything we’d experienced over the past nine days.
A huge thank you to Isadore Apparel, Time Cycles / MTBiker-SK, and of course Slovakia itself, for the stunning roads, the mountains, the villages, and the unforgettable hospitality. This wasn’t just a bikepacking trip; it was an adventure we’ll be talking about for years. One thing’s for sure - we’ll be back.
Ďakujem a na zdravie Slovensku!!
