Corsican Odyssey: Gravel-Packing through Kallistea
Get inspired by Simon, Mathilde, and Hugo’s 8-day gravel adventure through Corsica. In mid-October, they embarked on an epic journey across the island, covering over 600 km on the legendary GT20 route or better known as La Grande Traversée.
Words by Simon Bonnefous, photos by Hugo Schleicher and Simon Bonnefous.
Prologue: The Spark of Adventure
I bought my gravel bike a year ago, and quickly fell in love with its versatility and comfort. It’s neither as efficient as a mountain bike on rough terrain nor as speedy as a road bike on paved roads, but it strikes the perfect balance. What really inspired me to take the plunge, however, was the freedom I saw in gravel packing, captured in pictures and short films. I imagined the exhilaration of setting off on my own, with nothing but the open road ahead. And as I set off on my first solo gravel trip, from Gap to Grenoble, the sense of adventure I sought was real.
But I soon realized that the true magic of these adventures would come when shared with like-minded friends. So, I convinced Mathilde and Hugo, the only ones I knew would be interested, to join me on an 8-day gravel trip through Corsica. We decided on mid-October, though the season was nearly over, as it was the only window of time we all had in common. Our route? The GT20, one of the most scenic and achievable routes for our timeframe, but with a few detours of our own to make it more challenging. Because why not?
The Journey Begins
We started in Bastia, on Corsica’s northern coast. The first day was an introduction to the island’s diversity: rocky coastal paths gave way to winding roads that climbed through lush hills. Our gravel bikes felt perfectly suited to Corsica’s mix of smooth tarmac and rough, uneven roads.
Each day brought something new. We cycled through ancient villages, climbed mountain passes, and paused to take in views of the Mediterranean’s deep blue waters. The terrain was demanding, but the rewards were immeasurable. Corsica's autumn colors framed every moment: burnt oranges, golden yellows, and deep lush greens.
The Highs and Lows
Two climbs stood out as both punishing and awe-inspiring. The first, after crossing the Agriates Desert, was a 40-kilometer ascent through a stark, sun-baked landscape to the Bocca di Bataglia. The other, the Col de Vergio, rose from sea level to 1,477 meters over 35 kilometers. As the longest climb of the trip, it tested our endurance, but the views of chestnut forests and distant peaks made it unforgettable.
Day 4 was a turning point. After a grueling climb to Vergio’s summit, we descended into a serene alpine valley and found refuge in a cabin. The next day, we rested, collecting chestnuts, swimming in icy streams, and soaking in the quiet charm of rural Corsica.
Hidden Gems and Final Climbs
Day 7 was a highlight. An old local had tipped us off about hidden hot springs. A short detour brought us to an unassuming cement tub tucked beneath the road, where steaming natural
water bubbled up. Stripping down and sinking into the heat after days of hard riding felt almost surreal.
The final days carried us south, where Corsica’s rugged beauty softened into coastal views. The closer we got to Ajaccio, the more crowded the roads became, and by the time we reached the port, it was clear the adventure was coming to an end.
Reflections on the Journey
As the ferry glided across the sea, I found myself replaying moments from the past eight days: the endless climb through the Corsican mountains, the chilly morning swims, the camaraderie over shared meals, and the raw beauty of Corsica’s landscapes. Each moment felt like a puzzle piece, coming together to form an adventure far greater than the sum of its parts.
This trip wasn’t just about cycling, it was about discovery. We discovered the island’s stunning diversity, from its turquoise coastlines to its fiery autumn forests and rugged mountain passes. We learned how resilient we could be, pushing through exhaustion, rain, and long climbs with the promise of breathtaking views and the satisfaction of reaching the top. And we found something special in the simplicity of life on the road, where all that mattered was the rhythm of the pedals, the scenery unfolding around us, the food we would find, and the company of good friends.
Corsica had surprised me at every turn. Its untamed spirit, warm and welcoming people, and challenging roads left a mark on me that I’ll carry long after returning home. It reminded me why I fell in love with gravel packing in the first place: the freedom, the connection to nature, and the stories you bring back with you.
This wasn’t just a journey across Corsica. It was a journey inward, a reminder that the best adventures often lie beyond comfort zones and on roads less traveled. I hope that anyone reading this feels inspired to set out on their own journey, to embrace the unknown, and to discover the magic that comes when you let the road lead you.
Gear Notes
Throughout the trip, my Isadore kit proved invaluable. From the comfort of the merino bibs to the rain jacket that kept us dry during downpours, the gear handled every challenge Corsica threw at us. The combination of technical performance and timeless design felt perfectly in sync with the adventure’s spirit.
