POV: The Dolomites, Minus the Crowds
Forget bumper-to-bumper camper vans, endless lines of motorbikes, and the chaotic traffic jams of the Sella Ronda. What if we told you there is another side to the Italian Alps? A rugged, raw, and wonderfully quiet sanctuary where the tarmac belongs almost exclusively to you and the mountains.
Recently, our crew packed our bikes and headed deep into the Carnic Alps and Dolomites to a little-known town called Ampezzo (no, not Cortina). We made our base at the stunning Casa Carlo Ampezzo, a gorgeous retreat that feels like a home away from home.
And let’s be honest about Ampezzo itself: it’s the ultimate basecamp because it actually has everything a cyclist needs without any tourist fluff. You’ll find a cozy café for your pre-ride espresso, a local shop for supplies, a gas station (the sacred temple of emergency snacks), and a pizzeria and bar to debrief every single drop of sweat. Everything you need, zero hassle.
Here is your field guide to exploring the real Carnic Alps and Friulian Dolomites, where the tarmac is smooth, the views are staggering, and the only traffic you’ll encounter is a confused cow.
Through the mysterious tunnels to Lago di Sauris
Leaving Ampezzo, the road takes you toward Lago di Sauris. To get there, you have to navigate a series of raw, carved-out rock tunnels that pierce straight through the mountain. It feels like riding through a sci-fi movie set. The reward on the other side is the breathtaking Lago di Sauris, a stunning turquoise reservoir held back by an engineering marvel: a massive, steep dam built deep into the dramatic gorges.
The Epic Extension: Sella di Rioda
If you reach the reservoir and realize your legs are feeling extra good today, you can push things even further. From the lake, you can continue on and extend your ride into an epic climb packed with countless switchbacks that winds all the way up to Sella di Rioda. It’s a challenging high-mountain push, but the stunning isolation and views from the top will make you forget every single watt you just burned.
And on the way back, don’t forget to stop in Sauris di Sotto. Sitting high in the Carnic Alps, Sauris is famous for its tradition of smoked meats, including some seriously good local guanciale. Grab a piece and you’ve just earned the perfect ingredient for an evening carbonara carbo load.
Monte Crostis from Ravascletto – The Panoramic Way
If you want jaw-dropping scenery, head over to Ravascletto and tackle the legendary Monte Crostis. Known as the panoramic way, this climb offers uncompromised, sweeping views of the surrounding valleys. Look closely on a clear day from the ridge, and you can even spot another absolute titan of the cycling world rearing its head in the distance: the infamous Monte Zoncolan. Standing there looking out over the neighboring giants is an experience that stays with you long after the ride is over.
Ready to ditch the crowds and discover the hidden side of the Alps? Pack your bags, tune your bike, and we'll see you on the road.
